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Why not have swapped in a IRS rear suspension? Or is this 80% drag truck?

Make sure you install cushions on the quarter panels, for crowd safety. 😂

Just to clarify you can get a 3.73 gear ratio in the Ford 9in, I know this because when I swapped out the rear end on my 97 f150 to a 9in I had to get a gear kit to match the front differential. Yukon gear was the solution for my application.

Vice grip garage built a very strong triangulated 4 link rear setup in his ratrod Ford truck and now we got the man with the plan that built a 3 link setup in his truck,, decisions decisions I have no idea which one to use in my s10 street truck. Oh boy this is gonna be fun, I'll keep leaf springs in for now until I finish building the supercharged 11.5-1 compression forged 4.3, I estimate 650hp so I'll need something strong back there lol

Lol I think we all have the Tim Allen syndrome! 😅👍🏻

I have been looking into building a dakota with a reversed upper y link. This would eliminate the need for a pan hard bar and allow me to keep stock fuel cell and exhaust. I’ve only seen this done in off-road so I’m wondering why it hasn’t been done on street trucks and if it has there is little documentation. Think ride tech upper link flipped around pointing towards the tail gate. It seems the only trade off is spare tire but that’s not so important in a pro touring street truck. Thoughts?

Why not build the upper as a wishbone for centering (like a desert truck or bagged truck) instead of having to deal with a panhard?

Most of those ? 'S you have addressed in other vids. WTH is wrong with people? They watch other creators videos and comment based on what they saw. No explanation needed . Your truck your build. We do this $#!+ everyday. We watch ,because we still like to see what others do. Be it "right" or wrong. In who's eyes though? So ,that ramble to say this again. You do you. We're gonna watch whether others do or not. Quit explaining yourself and get back to satisfying your OCD. 😂 sorry couldn't help myself. Im that way too!🤘

Nope. Satchell Link. Better yet, a Satchell Link De-Dion axle.

Another point regarding the 8.5” rear being plenty strong enough: it’s only gonna see 60 percent of the torque consistently. The other 40 percent is going to the front.

In my opinion Chevy had it right in the 60's to '72 when they had a triangulated 2 link coil spring rear end and no need for the 3rd link then the eggheads redesigned for the new sq body for '73 release. The new modern shock technology or coilover was all really needed and perhaps hyme joints for tracking adjustability for race applications.

Nice work. I’m excited to see this project coming together.

I like the fact that you have gone for Steel over High Tensile Steel for your suspension. Easier and safer to weld, Higher resistance to developing stress cracks (When optimised for weight)and unless you take advantage of the higher tensile strength no weight advantage. The only thing that worries me is the top link and the front pivots ability to spread the forward push in the chassis. Leaf springs do a great job of softening up the push over time and absorbing some of the flex. The instant load on a single cross member would be my concern. Does it need the load spread forward to ahead of the lower front pivots into the box section? Probably not but it would make the likelihood of unwanted flex moot. I suppose it is all about the goals of either holding it up like a 4wd or pushing it forward like a Drag Car?

This video has a very in depth explanation of why they run a panhard bar vs a Watts link. ( and why they only run a heim joint at one end ) ruclips.net/video/DVJsf6iHfco/видео.htmlsi=7YVpwcRUlrMp9DfK Keep up the great work LT!

How much did you have to change from the factory shims?

Whoever said there’s no such thing as a stupid question didn’t have to see the questions you answered. 😂

Boost district 427

Yes , Ford 8.8 from explorer come in 3.73 with LSD

Hey LT you don't need to explain yourself to anyone....internet trolls be trolling. Keep up the good work 😎

You could get some aluminum links built later

Gonna put a 3-link on my nova , plan on road/drifting it. Plus just driving

The H is silent

Thank you for addressing the question of the Panhard vs Watts link, and your right, with a REALLY LONG panhard bar, the side to side movement will be very minimal, especially if it's centered in the arc, it's simple and probably cheaper..

I believe you're overthinking or making up drama that isn't there. There isn't Anyone who doesn't know why you made the choices you made on the engine..

The Factory Five 3-link design has the upper bar offset to the passenger side, and those cars handle very well. LT, the brackets look plenty good as they are.

Makes a lot more sense. I agree with most all of it, and look forward to seeing how it all pans out! You need that weight in the back, The front end is so heavy, and you won't even be bringing it to 70/30 will you? Can you mount the panhard bar to the 3rd link? Maybe even make whatever that first one was with one on bottom one on top? I like this, we are learning together so that is even better. I watch Dave Dirthead and he just is so experienced and entertaining, to see a bit younger is pretty cool too. Albeit completely different build needs though most of the time. Still enjoy the trial and error of it. Thanks for taking the time to address all the concerns. And yeah best to make content out of it!

I remember at one point you said something about it being easier to start with a Zr2, but those have a two inch lift built into the frame, so that wouldn't have gone well. For any one looking to do an awd s10 all you need is the front diff transfer case and driveshaft from an astro van or a bravada.

Hopefully u get to race an SLP colorado someday

Why not put the fuel tank in the back

I appreciate you using good quality brackets and parts we civilians can get our hands on. Considering the economy.

most or all of this question were answered in the other video

5:05 I hear Pantera in the background. I know Dinebag when i hear one of his solos.

As someone who has built rock crawlers unsprung weight makes the vehicle more stable. It wont be an issue.

This reminds me of a 3rd gen F-body torque arm set up.

Hi LT...This truck deserve a manual transmition...

What trunnion upgrade kit did you use ?

8.5 10 bolt is easy to get bigger axles and posi for also that makes it just as strong as a 12 bolt or an 8.8 ford

Ive heard so much back and forth about ls cam bearings, and the supposedly line honed bearings. I just dont buy it. No way do they get machined, cleaned, bearings get installed, go back to the line bore machine, clean again, then assembly. It makes no sense. Far more likely all cam bearings were not in square from the start and wear funny. Honestly it used to be on small blocks that the cam bearings never got looked at. Now LS=new small block, the same applies. Seen plenty of them withstand the worst abuse, absolute monkeys throwing them together, and bouncing off the rev limiter doing burnouts over and over and over, truly low buck, copper spray reused head gasket, absolutely sloppy builds that would take a 300 shot and not blow up, and brand new motors that don't last through the warmup......never know

LT! Do it your way

I want to All wheel drive my 2011 Alavanche. Where do I start

The 3-link IS awesome. IF - IF YOU HAVE THE ROOM. 3-links under an engine just doesn’t work.

Hey man I love you videos and hey my run what you want, it's your time,it's your money, and you probably have more skill in one had then everybody here. Do what you want and keep up the good work.!

8.5 & 8.6 10 bolts get a bad reputation from off roading with big tires heavy trucks on the street with a good locker they're resilient and can take a beating

Dirthead Dave just did a 4 link for Derek at Vice Grip Garage with similar heavy duty off road links. I find this fascinating, & both of you doing so, inspires me to want to do this to my 1975 Monza 2+2, that I started the back half 30 years ago. Marriage, kids, yadda, yadda. It got set aside. My intentions were to just do a long ladder bar/coil overs on it... But now, I'm thinking a 3 link with the heavy duty parts you guys are adapting would be cool. My mind is leaning toward the third link running toward the rear bumper, in a Z link fashion, as that's the hot ticket for Late Model Dirt track Racing. It would alleviate the space issues also, as well as the 3rd link could be centered on the axle housing. Time to get er' finished.

I run a 3 link on the front of my jeep xj with tons and 40's if it can handle that I think a rear axle on a s10 will be cool. just try and set the trackbar flat at ride height and it should be fine.

I dig the rear suspension. Wouldn’t worry about the weight, what real weight savings would there be from 1/8 to 1/4 wall…..i bet not enough to fool with. I’d take all out strength myself. People slam new cams in worn bearings on LS engines all the time. Bet it lives longer than you intend on it being in there.

Since you want a CNC plasma table I assumed you had the CAD skills. Fusion 360 has sheet metal tools and CAM built in.

I did a cam swap without new cam bearings. Been beating on it for over 3 years now no problems.

Why didn't you just buy a trx

Are you temporarily dropping in a stock cam 5.3? It should still boogie pretty well since the s10 is so much lighter than the full size trucks you’re used to